Day 17

Thursday 18^th November 2010: Day One of the Inca Trail

The early starts are relentless! Another one today (7am), we have our last shower and  a breakfast of pancakes and coca tea (my gums are starting to go numb with all the coca tea).

We got back on board the bus which drove us to the start of the Inca Trail. The sun was beating down overhead so Suzi bought herself a bandana to save her scalp.

The porters took all of our 5kg bags (12) and put them all in two big bags and set off with them to the check point. The government have brought regulations into place such that all porters may only carry 25kg each. Now 5kg didn’t seem like much when we were trying to cram all my essentials into the bag but when we saw those poor porters slogging up the steps, dripping with sweat I began to appreciate why the restrictions were in place. These poor guys work like mules for a pittance of only £40 for the whole 4 day trek. They are issued with boots at the start of the season which only last 4 months so the majority of them were hauling themselves up wearing only sandals!!!! It certainly made me re-evaluate my working life!

We had a different checkpoint to check our permits and got another stamp in the passport! They only allow 500 people per day to start the Inca trail and that includes all porters and guides – we are a group of 12 travellers with a team of 17 staff so it is not as crowded as I thought it might be. A quick team photo (look at us all full of smiles and expectation!)

and we’re off!!! And it’s straight up! Fortunately the path soon flattens out and the going becomes a little easier but we are all struggling with the altitude – you just don’t feel like you can draw a full breath of air.

We pass an Inca ruin site which provides a welcome rest stop and the first of many lessons from Reuben, our guide.

This is Llactapata, again characterised by agricultural terraces, which are thought to have supplied Machu Picchu with Maize, their staple crop. We also see numerous cacti and the cochineal beetle parasites that are harvested by the Andean people and used to dye their Alpaca wool the famous red colour associated with their traditional dress.

After a few hours trekking we reach our lunch stop.

Our porters have rushed on ahead and erected a tent complete with table and seats for all of us.

We are given a drink upon arrival and a bowl of water for hand washing – maybe this slumming it isn’t going to be so bad? We are served a 3 course hot meal of appetiser, soup and main course followed by tea of your choice – coca of course!

We press on after a relaxing 2 hour lunch break – more of the undulating paths. We struggle on the ups and relish the downs.

There are a couple more stops for water and finally we arrive in tonight’s camp, we’ve walked about 8 miles today. Today has been pitched as the ‘easy day’ – tomorrow is the ‘challenge’ so god only knows how he’ll cope with that! The camp is at Huayllabamba, the last village on the trail, and has spectacular views of snow capped Mount Veronica in the distance.

The porters have again beaten us to it, despite being left with the lunch camp to dismantle and the tents are up when we arrive. Franky collapses in a heap. He takes a well deserved Frank nap and I go to check out the toilet situation.

There are 3 – none are to my liking, so I find a secluded bush.

We are served afternoon tea of popcorn, crackers and jam in the mess tent. The temperature plummets as soon as the sun goes down so we are all sporting our fetching alpaca wear!

Only an hour and a half later we are served another 3 course meal – if nothing else we are being very well fed!  Feeling very sleepy (in Franky’s case this could be something to do with the Balvenie he has been supping from his hipflask) we all take ourselves off to bed – well is it 8pm!!!!

I wrap myself up in every piece of clothing I have brought and snuggle up in my sleeping bag. My Bear Gryls husband on the other hand strips down to his boxer shorts and declares my outfit ridiculous. I don’t care, I’m toasty warm and very soon I’m fast asleep!