Friday 19th November 2010: Day Two of the Inca Trail
What an ungodly hour to be awoken from my strange dream about my old school, McDonalds and girl saying to me ‘ I didn’t know electricians had cooked breakfasts”? now granted this was a very strange dream but it was better than the sound of a porter tapping on the tent at 05:30
“Amigo??”
“Si?”
“COCA TEA??”
Yes this was the start to the dreaded Day Two.
The breakfast was good and plentiful, fruit salad for the ladies and pancakes and porridge for the men. Suzi had all of them.
Before we set off we were introduced to our team of porters and cooks. They all told us their names and how long they’d been working on the Inca Trail. Some have been doing this for 5 years, twice a week for £40.
We set off from camp which was at 3000m and headed towards the “Abra de Warmi Wanusca” (Dead Woman’s Pass) which is at 4215m. A climb of 1200m over 7km which meant that it was pretty much straight up. Straight up steps with ever thinning oxygen.
Due to the size of the group some people naturally walk faster than others so Reuben suggested that we walk at our own pace today rather that trying to walk as a group. We immediately decided to bring up the rear (to help others who may fall, faint, etc).
Words can not describe just how difficult this was, stopping every 10- 20m to catch breath or drink water. I had consumed 2 litres in the first two hours. The sun was high in the sky and was blisteringly hot. Step by stupid stone Inca step we closed in on the summit. Every bend we rounded presenting us with another 10, 20 or 50 steps.
After the first 50 minutes we found the first rest stop. We had a well earned rest and bumped into 4 members of the group, the rest had been through already. We didn’t want to stop too long as the old thighs start to tighten so we had 10 minutes and carried on.
I was behind Suzi for the entire day and not long after the first stop I was grumbling on to the back of her head about how I’m not into endurance sports and how hiking is not my thing. The mountain was begging to break me.
We found the second rest stop after another hour and 35mins of slogging it up the Inca Stairmaster. We found only 2 members of group this time, we replenished the water (more weight) and Suzi had a tinkle. It was the biggest smile of the day so far as she came back sing the praises of how clean the toilets were.
We had managed to climb above the canopy at last so at least we could see the views which were breathtaking. Having climbed 800m we are now 2/3 of the way up. The altitude has another interesting effect on me as I declare that I’m enjoying myself. Delirium?
From here we can see people on the top, they look like ants but at least we have a goal. We push on and very quickly the terrain becomes even more difficult with no respite, the steps are all different shapes and sizes so it’s really hard to find a rhythm. Suzi is handling this a lot better than me, I have drifted off into a dream like state thinking how I would prefer to be spending my time, such as being run down by a rhino, eaten by an army of ants or nipple twisted constantly for a week.
Finding solace in others who were stopping every three steps also we started to make some mountain buddies, we spoke with a couple who were doing it for RNIB, the fella had been up all night with the Tommy’s and was not in a good way, I met a Sri Lankan/ Canadian bloke who was entertaining and we chewed the fat about Starbucks and fat Americans and decided that this must be who Venti’s are aimed at.
Every corner now seems as though we must be at the top, but we can just hear the woops and hollas of the insufferable people who have already made it, they still seem a million miles away.
Almost two hours later we arrive, we’ve done it, we conquered Dead Womans Pass
After a quick Snickers to celebrate and a few pics to prove it we set off down the other side.
Going down is no barrel of laughs either, every step now batters the knees rather than the lungs but despite this we press on at a pace, dropping 700m and covering 3km in just over an hour. We’re a bit late for lunch but the rest of the gang are there to clap us home (Paqaymayu – the largest campsite on the trail) and it feels good.
A hearty lunch is waiting for us when we sit down in the mess tent, I barely finished chewing mine before zipping up my sleeping bag for a nap.
The good news? That’s the end of today’s walking.
Suz went off for a shower, I say a shower, the water came straight out of the river which was ice cold and mid rinse a cheeky porter popped his head in the window for a look, Suz being Suz greeted him with a cheery “ello” and he scarpered. Suz said the shower was freezing but was delighted to remove the layer of grime, dust, sweat, sun cream and insect repellent.
Suz lies next to me in the tent, me snoring and her writing the journal so as not to forget anything for the blog, that cant have been easy with pins and needles in her fingers (yep, another altitude side effect)
I peeled my face of the “pillow” and went for an army wash. FREEZING!!
We ate tea and each regaled tales of how difficult the day had been, each finding comfort in the others pains and difficulties. Spirits were high in camp and a lot of laughing could be heard early into the evening.
We sloped of to bed to prepare for another day on shanks’ pony only to be awoken at midnight buy one of the group, her fella had an attack of the Tommy’s too and was dehydrated, they needed our water.
We slept off and on until the inevitable happened
Tap tap tap……
“Amigo?”
“Si?”
“COCA TEA!!”
Yep it was 05:30 again.
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